KULKUL MOMENT: Kofetarica
Everyone knows the lady with the penetrating and benevolent gaze who looks at us from the wall of the National Gallery – Ivana Kobilca’s Kofetarica (Coffee Drinker) is probably Slovenia’s most famous work of art. And when did you last look her in the eye?
© Arhiv Narodne galerije
© Peter Irman
Viewing of the famous Kofetarica by Ivana Kobilca accompanied by Ljubljana coffee outside one of the city’s charming restaurants
The twenty-six year old artist painted her while studying in Munich, and caught a moment of simple pleasure that one can enjoy at any age with her masterly brush strokes. Whoever takes a long, deep look at Kobilca’s Kofetarica will never drink coffee in the same way again. From now on, may every cup of coffee be a special moment, a moment in which the cultural and the culinary meet.
A cup of coffee has always had a very special place in Slovenian culture, both in literature and art. In fact, the coffee-drinking ritual and even the simple invitation to “go for a coffee” have multiple meanings in the Slovenian language: it can be an invitation for a chat but also express aspects of friendship, socialising, business and sometimes even romance. And you can also enjoy the drink in different ways: sometimes you gulp down the noble brown liquid at a bar and rush off to wherever you’re headed; at other times a cup of richly aromatic coffee with a frothy, milky cap can spark off a long coffee-drinking session with a friend.
Coffee came to the Slovenian lands in the 17th century, and was enjoyed solely by the wealthiest social classes until the 19th century, when prosperous country people also began drinking it, although it was primarily women who drew strength from it. The first café opened in Ljubljana in 1713. Most of the coffee that was brought to the Slovenian lands came from Trieste.
Nowadays, Slovenians rank fourth in the world when it comes to coffee consumption, with the average Slovene consuming 6.1 kg of coffee a year.
© Arhiv Narodne galerije
Tip: Coffee machines have again begun whirring to serve customers in the outdoor seating areas of Ljubljana’s restaurants and cafés, with the hands of skilful baristas once again pouring, frothing and presenting their work after the pause due to the pandemic. Drinking coffee in Ljubljana in June is a special experience, especially if you combine it with a visit to see the famous Kofetarica by Ivana Kobilca in the National Gallery.
In the mood for some good coffee?
Here are some tips on where you can enjoy excellent coffee while relaxing in one of the city’s many cafés and outdoor seating areas. Zebra Patisseries (be sure to order a tempting slice of cake, as the Parisian aromas are wafting through the Koseze neighbourhood), Cafe Čokl (are you familiar with the Cup of Awareness?), Cafetino (and take a bit of freshly ground coffee home), Moderna Café (A coffee cocktail, anyone? With a bit of art on the side? Yes please!), Črno Zrno (a cold brew for caffeine-infused summer refreshment and a must-have Instagram moment next to the stunning white and blue tiles), Tri Marije (a coffee trailer at the Central Market), Stow Coffee Roasters (now also on Prešeren Square!), Zvezda Café (accompanied by people-watching on the patio overlooking Park Zvezda), and Landerik (serving Kolektiv 22 Coffee Roastery coffee).