Rupnik's Line in Zaplana (690 m)

In Zaplana, a picturesque village nestled in the rolling hills in the hinterland of Ljubljana, you can enjoy a pleasant combination of hiking and history. The area’s green slopes are home to remarkably well-preserved military bunkers from the period before the Second World War. A gentle themed trail will lead you across scenic meadows and through forests to these bunkers. Along the way, you’ll find resting spots with benches and marked “energy points” designed to enhance your wellbeing.

The bunkers at Zaplana were part of the Rupnik Line – a system of fortifications begun in the mid-1930s by the Kingdom of Yugoslavia in western Slovenia to prepare for a possible attack from Italy. The line was named after General Leon Rupnik, of Slovenian heritage. However, the defensive line never saw action – it was abandoned following the withdrawal of Yugoslav troops before the full Italian invasion – and the bunkers in Zaplana were never fully completed.

Three well-preserved bunkers stand out on the trail, as the Italian army did not demolish them after occupying the area. Visitors can even enter these bunkers to explore their interiors. Information boards along the route explain the history of the Rupnik Line, including its impact on local life. Many of the villagers worked on its construction, attracted by the good pay on offer.

The loop trail begins at the popular Gostilna Mesec inn, where you’ll find the first signpost featuring the logo of a concrete bunker tower with three firing lines. Early on, the path also passes the remains of the late Roman defensive wall known as the Claustra Alpium Iuliarum. Built in the 4th century, it was the largest Roman architectural project within the territory of today’s Slovenia, demonstrating the long-standing strategic importance of this region.

The first half of the walk gently ascends through meadows and woodland, offering occasional splendid views of the lush, hilly landscape. The second half mostly descends until you reach a paved road. Don’t miss the old stone well here, known locally as Napoleon’s Well, named after the emperor who is said to have passed through this area. From there, a quiet path leads you back to the Gostilna Mesec inn, completing the loop.

The hike will take you approximately an hour and a half if you follow the trail without long stops. However, if you wish to pause at all five designated energy points and spend the recommended time at each – as indicated on information boards describing their beneficial effects – you should allow considerably more time for your excursion.