MMM STORIES: Castle Vineyard
For centuries, Ljubljana Castle has stood watch over the city from its hilltop perch, a timeless guardian of countless secrets and stories. You may have heard many of them before - but there’s one that’s particularly noble and green.
It’s the story of the castle’s vineyard. On the sunniest southern slope of Castle Hill grows its main protagonist - the Castle Vineyard itself. Its 1,050 vines yield white and red grapes of the belpin and rdečegrajec varieties, which are harvested, pressed, and bottled each autumn to mature into Castle Wine by the following St. Martin’s Day.
© Suzan Gabrijan
It might come as a surprise that, right in the heart of urban Ljubljana, there is a cultivated piece of land that yields a rich and high-quality harvest every year. But the castle vineyard – and the many people who tend to it with dedication and care – stands as proof of what can be achieved when we work together and shape our surroundings with respect for nature, community, history, and tradition.
Once upon a time …
Historical accounts tell us that the lords of Ljubljana Castle were already, many centuries ago, enjoying fine wine from their own vineyard. Naturally so – wine has for millennia accompanied ceremonies, celebrations, and gatherings of all kinds. Wine culture, in its own refined way, preserves the bond between the fast pace of city life and the quiet admiration and respect for nature, fertile soil, and all that grows from it.
Today, there are no noblemen at the Castle. Its caretakers are people who understand that Ljubljana Castle belongs to everyone – to residents and visitors of all ages who come seeking learning and fun, recreation and relaxation among the lush castle greenery, or culinary delights with views of the city. Like the Castle itself, the Castle Vineyard is a place where cultural and natural heritage, lovingly protected, coexist in harmony with all who come to visit.
The city of vines and wine
The significance of the vine and wine for Ljubljana’s urban culture was first marked in 1990, when a descendant of the world’s oldest grapevine – the Žametovka from Maribor’s Lent – was planted in the Castle courtyard. An even more important milestone in establishing Ljubljana as a city of vines and wine followed twenty-five years later.
In 2016, the year Ljubljana was named the European Green Capital, the Castle’s modern caretakers, in cooperation with the Agricultural Institute of Slovenia, planted a true castle vineyard on the sunniest southern slope of Castle Hill. For almost a decade now, 1,050 vines have flourished there – 500 of the white variety Belpin (a Slovenian synonym for Chardonnay, created by crossing Beline and Pinot) and 550 of the red variety Rdečegrajc, known internationally as Zweigelt.
The Castle’s wine story was later complemented by the opening of the Castle Wine Bar – a charming, vaulted cellar and sunny terrace that invite wine lovers from around the world to discover Slovenia’s rich winemaking heritage while enjoying one of the most beautiful views of the city.
A ne wine-growing region?
Anyone familiar with Slovenia’s winemaking tradition knows that the country officially has only three wine-growing regions – and that Ljubljana lies quite far from all of them. So it is not surprising that, when the Castle Vineyard was planted, some doubted whether grapes from Castle Hill could produce high-quality wine.
What mattered, though, was that the people who began the project in 2016 believed it could – and they backed that belief with knowledge, experience, and hard work. The management of Ljubljana Castle entrusted professional oversight to the Agricultural Institute of Slovenia, which, after analysing the soil and climate, selected the white and red grape varieties best suited to this unique terroir.
Just two years later, the first harvest was gathered, and on St. Martin’s Day 2019 the first bottles of Castle Wine – of very fine quality – were presented. Since then, around 1,200 bottles have been produced each year. Those who wish to enjoy it by the glass can visit the Castle Wine Bar, while bottles are also available for purchase in the Castle Shop. Both the wine and the vineyard have become inseparable parts of the Castle’s culinary and cultural experiences – inviting everyone to discover their story.
Experience the Castle Vineyard
All year round, the vineyard is carefully tended by the Castle’s maintenance team and experts from the Agricultural Institute. Like all of nature, the vines rest in late autumn, gathering strength for a new cycle of life – from traditional spring pruning to the joy of the early autumn harvest and the late-autumn celebration of young wine.
Although the vineyard is closed to the public most of the year, it opens its gates on special occasions. In summer, visitors can attend picnics or dinners among the vines; in spring and autumn, traditional open days are held – in mid-April to mark the anniversary of the planting, and in late September as part of Ljubljana Tourism Week.
The Castle’s wine story extends far beyond the carefully cultivated plot of land where it begins. Castle wine is served at all major Castle events, and it occasionally finds its way into culinary creations – such as Rdečegrajc macarons. In the spirit of Ljubljana Castle’s green and sustainable philosophy, the grape pomace left after pressing is now distilled into tropinovec, a traditional grape brandy.
The vineyard also plays a role in the award-winning “Time Machine Culinary Experience,” where visitors are guided through the history of Ljubljana by historical characters and flavours – with two of the six tasting stops paired with Castle Belpin and Rdečegrajc wines.
Special experiences await those who choose to become vineyard patrons. In autumn, they join the harvest and pick grapes from their own vine, and on St. Martin’s Day they toast with the Castle’s caretakers using the wine they helped bring to life. Patrons know they are part of a truly unique and noble story – one that enriches the city and pays tribute to nature and the people who live in harmony with it.
Roughly half of the vines already have their patrons, but anyone can still adopt one – for a year, three years, or indefinitely. Many patrons are companies or Castle employees, while more and more are individuals and local residents whose lives have been touched by the Castle’s wine story.
The Castle Vineyard is a beautiful symbol – it reminds us that caring for our cultural and natural heritage connects us, and that each of us, with even a small contribution, can help create noble stories that echo through time and carry the spirit of our beautiful city into the wider world.