Moste Cultural Quarter

In Ljubljana we don't have an Eastern Bloc, but we do have eastern houses and blocks of flats. Take a stroll among them and capture the untamed spirit of the city. That spirit is shaped by the creative, athletic, and multicultural character of the Moste, Kodeljevo, and Fužine neighbourhoods. There's probably nowhere else with such a variety of apartment buildings, city villas, and farms in one place. And it's all bound together by the Ljubljanica river and the green belt along its banks. Hop on your bicycle and take the exciting river trail from the centre of Ljubljana to the modernist-era housing utopia, where you can enjoy a view of the sea of apartment buildings and playgrounds where the best Slovenian basketball players first started playing, with the mighty Alps and the sky above.

East of paradise

This is a quarter for explorers who love to pivot off the beaten path. It's a must-see for all design and architecture enthusiasts. A state of zen while cycling or walking, brought on by the urban graffiti scene, the Balkan gastronomy, and the modernist design. The plants, birds, and other animals along the Ljubljanica river make up a lush ecosystem that is pure and unaltered. The same goes for the colourful local community that makes Ljubljana's cultural quarter of Moste – Fužine so special and alive.

First punk concert behind the iron curtain

Each neighbourhood has a strong identity. Its own kindergartens, schools, libraries, and cultural centres. Although Moste was once a village settlement by the road leading in and out of Ljubljana, during the industrialisation of the late 19th century it grew into an important workers' suburb. Later on, Moste became known around Europe as a cultural epicentre, where the famous Slovenian punk band Pankrti performed the first punk concert behind the iron curtain.

A quarter for dance, rap, and ball games

There's lots going on around the Španski borci Culture Centre, a white structural sarcophagus nestled among apartment buildings and home of the world famous Slovenian modern dance ensemble. The Fužine neighbourhood, as one of the most densely populated residential areas in Slovenia, is another story. Today it's most popular with families, but it was once a ghetto of the so-called Fužine princes, crammed together from all over Slovenia and the other former Yugoslav states. Today in Fužine there's still more than 2.5 square metres of playground space available per child, while the Fužine princes live on as urban myths through graffiti, and through the books of Goran Vojnović and rap tracks of Zlatko. These days Fužine is a tight-knit community that celebrates all the holidays, from Christmas to Bairam; a neighbourhood where there's always time for a cup of coffee, a game of bowls, or a casual kickabout. The Museum of Architecture and Design retains the original kiosk stand designed by Saša Mächtig during the golden age of Slovenian modernism; an era kept alive here through the locals' way of life.

1. Sever's Garage on Ambrožev trg

Location: Ambrožev trg 4

Where else to start a cycling tour than at one of the most unique modernist garage houses in Ljubljana. The TGH-48 garage house is a masterpiece by architect Savin Sever, a student of Edvard Ravnikar and one of the most important representatives of Slovenian modern architecture. The garage consists of 2 partially overlapping cylinders connected by an internal two-way passage.
And now just a few pedal strokes away, across Roška cesta, to Ljubljana's epicentre of contemporary art and the Cukrarna gallery.

2. Cukrarna Gallery

Location: Poljanski nasip 40

The only correct way to enter the Moste cultural district is through Cukrarna – once the largest sugar refinery in the entire Austro-Hungarian Monarchy, and today a contemporary art gallery and event venue. Once you've explored the history and spaces of this exceptional industrial heritage building and walked through all the current exhibitions, it's time for some coffee and refreshments at the popular Cukrarna Cafe on the ground floor, where you can also marvel at the static and architectural feats that went into the building's renovation.

If it's too early for the first coffee stop, you can continue your tour from Cukrarna to the Ljubljanica river along the Poljanski nasip embankment, then further along the Ljubljanica to the east, across Kajuhova ulica and all the way to the footbridge at the confluence of the Ljubljanica river.

3. Confluence of the Ljubljanica river and the Gruber canal

Location: Footbridge at the confluence

Stop in the middle of the footbridge, where you can enjoy a beautiful view of the reunification of the Ljubljanica river and the Gruber water canal, which was built to drain high water from the Ljubljana Marshes.

Now continue across the footbridge into Štepanjsko naselje and along the Ljubljanica river on the Štepanjsko nabrežje Embankment until you see the footbridge at Brodarjev trg on the left and the charming little allotments on the right.

4. Footbridge at Brodarjev trg

Location: Footbridge at Brodarjev trg

Welcome to the animal kingdom. Numerous animal species have also found their place in this most densely populated neighbourhood of Ljubljana. On a cycling trip along the river, you've surely encountered a swan, heron, duck, or nutria. If not, this is an ideal place to pump up your observation stats. Swans love to nest down here by the river.

On the right side of the road are the Musta allotments, which feature the most beautiful urban flower beds. Residents of the surrounding apartment buildings can set up their own homegrown vegetable gardens here.

A special experience is also a stop on the other side of the footbridge at the urban Fužine beach, which has concrete sun loungers, but where jumping into the water is not allowed. In the summer there is a popular Library under the Canopy, where you can leaf through a book or magazine in the company of locals in the pleasant shade.

And now we move over the footbridge to the Fužine princes, turn right and continue along the Fužinska path.

5. "My View" Graffiti

Location: Playground of the Secondary school of Gastronomy and Tourism Ljubljana, Preglov trg 9

As you cycle past the large concrete playground, look for graffiti with a quote from the famous Slovenian rapper, Zlatko: "Cursed be the day in which nothing new is learned". The graffiti is visible from the Fužinska path.

Zlatan Čordić (a.k.a. Zlatko) comes from Fužine and is one of the most famous Slovenian original music artists. He dedicated several songs to his community and to growing up in the neighbourhood. His most famous song is "Princi Fužinci" – Princes of Fužine.

6. MAO: Museum of Architecture and Design

Location: Rusjanov trg 7

You have successfully cycled to Fužine Castle, the only preserved Renaissance castle in Ljubljana. It serves as the seat of the Museum of Architecture and Design (MAO), one of the oldest museums of its kind in Europe, which is a must-see for all lovers of architecture and design or just for some good coffee while sitting on unique Slovenian chairs.

At Cafe MAO you can really feel the French flair in the beautiful Renaissance atrium. The chairs and tables in the cafe serve as an exhibition of the greatest hits of Slovenian industrial design. In the courtyard you also have to stop by Mächtig's iconic K67 kiosk from the 1960s, which made its way into the permanent collection of the Museum of Modern Art (MoMA) in New York as an example of top-notch industrial design. The K67 has marked many urban centres in the former Yugoslavia as part of their street furniture.

Back on the bike and onward along Chengdujska cesta to the final stop of the FUŽINE P + R bus line.

7. Mächtig's station No. 20

Location: Final stop of bus line No. 20 (FUŽINE P+R)

The last bus stop of bus number 20 is definitely worth a look on your cycling tour. It is equipped with original urban furniture by architect Saša Mächtig, and is the last such station in Ljubljana.

On Chengdujska cesta, turn left and continue towards Rusjanov trg. If you've now among apartment buildings, you're exactly where you need to be. You are now entering Nove Fužine.

8. Nove Fužine: Rusjanov trg – Preglov trg – Brodarjev trg

Location: Rusjanov trg – Preglov trg – Brodarjev trg

It's time to get lost among the apartment buildings, circle past the crowded playgrounds, and explore the last mega-neighbourhood in Ljubljana, which was thoughtfully planned out with many different types of apartment and associated green community spaces. The ideology of modernism, which viewed architecture as a social mission, was consistent with the socialist social order of the time.

Those who would prefer to stay on the marked routes on the tour map, no worries. Sometimes the best path is the most obvious one. You will get the best feel for the pulse of the neighbourhood if you simply ride straight the entire time, first through Rusjanov trg, then Preglov trg, and finally Brodarev trg. You will notice that there are no cars here. That's because the streets were designed to ensure the safety of children and families.

It doesn't matter which way you take, as long as you eventually reach Cafe Sladki Greh.

9. Cafe Sladki Greh

Location: Brodarjev trg 7

Sladki greh is a must-see if you're looking for truly authentic places. This cafe has been located in the heart of the Fužine neighbourhood for 40 years and is made up of eleven white Mächtig K67 kiosks with preserved interiors. Its importance is also highlighted by the fact that it was featured in as many as four Slovenian films. Today it is run by the hospitable Avdi, who took over the business from his father.

After you've satisfied your sweet tooth, continue your journey along the Fužine Path to the Muste Park.

10. Muste Family Park

Location: Family path

The park along the Ljubljanica river boasts a rich collection of playground equipment that is also suitable for persons with disabilities. There is also a community orchard nearby, where you can pick some fruit during the right time of year.

Continue along the Fužine path to the intersection with Ulica Mire Miheličeve.

11. Triplex Sever's garage

Location: Brodarjev trg 5

A few metres before the intersection of Fužinska path and Ulica Mire Miheličeve, on the right side, you will notice the legendary Triplex garage by the famous modernist architect Savin Sever.

Continue along Ulica Mire Miheličeve to the Stara elektrarna old city power station, across Zaloška cesta, and then continue towards the city centre until you reach the Španski borci Culture Centre.

12. Španski Borci Culture Centre

Location: Zaloška cesta 61

The Španski Borci Culture Centre is a venue dedicated to presenting contemporary art with an emphasis on dance. For more than 10 years, it has been home to the EN-KNAP Group professional contemporary dance ensemble, which is a big name internationally as well. If possible, try to catch a show, but otherwise be sure to stop by the Internacionala cafe, where you can also see the inside of the superbly preserved modernist building designed by the famous architect, Anton Jugovec. There is a gallery on the top floor as well, and another must-see is the terrace.

In front of the Španski borci building, there's a community event called Moste Open held every year. The view all around is marked by impenetrable concrete apartment buildings known to locals as the “Pentagon”.

13. Moste Market

Location: Zaloška cesta 55

The Moste market is the main place to meet people and buy seasonal fruit, vegetables, or other products. The city built it in the early 1980s, which is still nostalgically reflected in the furnishings of the interior spaces, where they offer everything from meat and dairy products to various oils. There is also a wine shop at the market, and if you want you can even have a new key made. The LUX Bakery still offers the classic hot dog snack, which is not easy to find in Ljubljana these days.

14. Žmoht

Location: Zaloška cesta 55

Join the locals at the kiosk sporting the giant "Žmoht" sign. It's run by Dalibor “Dado” Novaković, a local from Moste. The local customers get drawn into new social debates every day while enjoying their daily fresh meals.

Continue along Zaloška cesta and then Trubarjeva cesta to Center Rog.

15. Center Rog

Location: Trubarjeva cesta 72

(mural, Pony on the 3rd floor)

End your cycling tour in grand style, at the former Rog leather and bicycle factory, which is considered one of the most important buildings of the industrial architectural heritage of the 20th century. Today, the renovated building houses the Center Rog Creative and Social Hub with 9 production labs, creative studios, residencies, a café, and a market. Here you can turn any idea into a product, on your own or with the help of mentors.

First, stop at the mural of a female cyclist in front of Center Rog in the Park of the Erased. The painting of a woman on a bicycle by Serbian artist Jana Danilović recalls the bygone days of this space and the role of women in the former bicycle factory.

After that, walk up to the 3rd floor, where you can see the museum exhibit of the iconic Pony bicycle. The PONY is one of the most iconic models produced at the ROG bicycle factory. This small, folding bicycle connected generations in the former Yugoslavia. Many grew up with it, took their first independent ride around the block on it, or went on their first date on it. You may have even seen a Pony bicycle on the streets, as it is still extremely popular today.

1. Dragon Bridge

Location: Resljeva cesta 2

Welcome to a cycling adventure across green parks and bridges. The first rule of the tour is: If you see or hear the Ljubljanica river, you are on the right track. You are now on the Dragon Bridge, Ljubljana's most famous bridge. The entrance to the bridge is guarded by a dragon, the protector and symbol of the city. If you dare, ride your bikes past the dragons and start your cycling adventure along the right-hand bank of the Ljubljanica river in the direction leading away from the city centre.

2. Park on Ambrožev trg

Location: Ambrožev trg

Do you notice a special path in the middle of the park on Ambrožev trg? The path is paved with broken roof tiles from the Cukrarna - once the largest sugar refinery in the entire Austro-Hungarian Monarchy, which is now a contemporary art gallery and event venue.

Just a few metres ahead, right next to the Ljubljanica river, take the short ride to Plečnik's sluice gate.

3. Plečnik’s sluice gate

Location: Ljubljanica Bridge

The sluice gate on the Ljubljanica river is the work of the genius of European architectural modernism – Jože Plečnik, who gave Ljubljana an air of eternal elegance. Some of his works are even on the UNESCO World Heritage List. The sluice gate represents a symbolic triumphal arch dedicated to the water, which is now leaving the city. It is intended to regulate the water level in the city centre.

Continue along the Ljubljanica river, past the Fabianijev most Bridge, along the Poljanski nasip Embankment (direction away from the centre) and turn right onto Povšetova ulica to the Reuse Centre.

4. Reuse Centre

Location: Povšetova ulica 4

At the Reuse Centre you can purchase useful items that people no longer need. The products are inspected, cleaned, refurbished and restored at the centre, and then sold to new owners at a symbolic price. A great place for anyone who likes to thrift and shop second-hand.

Pedal forward along Povšetova ulica all the way to the intersection with Koširjeva ulica. There you turn onto Koširjeva ulica and then into the park.

5. Kodeljevo Castle and Park

Location: Koblarjeva ulica 34a

The Kodeljevo Park offers green areas for chilling out, a grove, grassy areas for running around and hiding, playgrounds, and a preserved castle tree-lined avenue. At Kodeljevo Castle you can also have a snack or enjoy a cup of coffee. More serious athletes can hone their skills with everything from tennis courts to the stadium and the Kodeljevo sports hall. For readers, there is a Library under the Canopy in the park in the summer, where you can enjoy a good book on a red deckchair in the company of the locals. In the summer you can also enjoy the Kodeljevo open-air bathing complex with both a large swimming pool and a smaller children's pool.

Explore the park and continue down to the Turnsko nabrežje Embankment.

6. Gruber Water Canal

Continue along the Turnsko nabrežje Embankment towards the Kajuhov most Bridge (direction away from the city centre). At the end of the embankment by the bridge, turn left and continue along Kajuhova ulica. On the right you will see the Footbridge at the Confluence, which is your destination.

Stop in the middle of the Footbridge, where you can enjoy a beautiful view of the reunification of the Ljubljanica river and the Gruber Water Canal, which was designed to drain high water from the Ljubljana Marshes.

7. Štepanjsko naselje Settlement

Now follows a panoramic ride along the Ljubljanica river through the Štepanjsko naselje Settlement. Roll up your pant cuffs and adjust your gears. When you cross the bridge at the confluence, turn left and drive along the Ljubljanica river along the Štepanjsko nabrežje Embankment. Follow the river's flow along Trpinčeva ulica, all the way to the Fužine Bridge.

Stop at the Fužine Bridge for a beautiful view of Fužine Castle, with the MAO Museum of Architecture and Design and the old city power plant.

Short detour: Path of Remembrance and Comradeship

If you want to stretch your legs even further or impress your friends with a cycling challenge, a one-way detour along the Path of Remembrance and Comradeship is perfect for you. The Path of Remembrance and Comradeship, or the Path along the Wire, is a 32.5 km long path around Ljubljana, located in the area where the city was surrounded by barbed wire during World War II. A part of the path also runs along the route of today's cycling tour and connects the neighbourhood with the green hinterland of Golovec hill.

At the Fužine Bridge, immediately turn right and follow the green-and-white signs with the inscription "POT", which will give you directions. When your pedalling brings you to the Ljubljanica river, turn around and go back almost all the way to the bridge.

Direct route

If you're not feeling too adventurous, continue on the bridge along Chengdujska cesta Road to an unusual labyrinth on the right.

8. Labyrinth of Art

Location: Studenec, 1260 Ljubljana
Get lost in the Labyrinth of Art and discover (or read) its treasure at the centre.

Then return to the Ljubljanica riverand head along Studenec, then across Chengdujska cesta and Rusjanov trg to Fužine Castle.

9. Fužine Castle

Location: Rusjanov trg 7

You have successfully cycled to Fužine Castle, the only preserved Renaissance castle in Ljubljana. Inside is the seat of the Museum of Architecture and Design (MAO), one of the oldest museums of its kind in Europe, which is a must-stop for all lovers of architecture and design, or just for some good coffee while sitting on unique Slovenian chairs.

10. Castle Park

Location: Rusjanov trg 7

The park opposite Fužine Castle is ideal for all nature lovers. The old trees and numerous exotic plant species offer both animals and people shelter from the city's racket and heat. Due to the proximity of the Ljubljanica river and the favourable conditions in the park, it is home to as many as 80 species of birds. The bohemian look of the garden is no coincidence, as the grass, fallen leaves, and branches create a perfect ecosystem for bird life. Another proof that nature is magical is the park tree, which is no longer alive, however two new ones are now growing from its trunk.

In the park and in the castle, look for a stone platform with stories by Goran Vojnović, an award-winning publicist and writer of the younger Slovenian generation, who wonderfully describes the rhythm of life in the neighbourhood and the former Yugoslavia, where you never eat just to get full and you never go somewhere just to get somewhere, but to socialise and experience something.

Continue along the Ljubljanica river on the Fužinska path to Muste Park.

11. Muste Family Park

Location: Family path

The park along the Ljubljanica river boasts a rich collection of playground equipment that is also suitable for persons with disabilities. There is also a community orchard nearby, where you can pick some fruit during the right time of year..

Continue along Fužinska path to the intersection with Ulica Mire Miheličeve, turn left onto Ulica Mire Miheličeve, and then continue to the Stara elektrarna old city power station. Then cross Zaloška cesta and continue in the direction towards the city centre to the Moste footbridge.

12. Moste footbridge

Location: Zaloška cesta 48

Have a drink at the "Pri Podkvi" bar if you're too thirsty to wait for the last stop of the tour, and then continue across the Moste footbridge. Continue along the Ljubljanica river towards the city centre to the Moste bridge.

13. Moste bridge

Location: Moste bridge

Once you cross the Moste bridge, a gourmet reward awaits you on the right for successfully finishing the cycling tour.

14. Restaurant Gostilna Dubočica

Location: Zaloška cesta 31

A pioneering branch of Leskovac barbecue in Slovenia. The most passionate eaters recommend the cheese-filled "pleskavica" patty or the "devojačka pletenica", a grilled long braid made from strips of three types of meat - pork, veal, and turkey. Enjoy your meal!